The concrete angles of Hall Ségur and the intimate art-filled Salle Miró, both at Maison de l’Unesco, Paris, are the setting for the presentation of LOEWE’s Fall Winter 2016 collection.
a variety of advanced methods. The placement of every pleat is studied, garments are designed to form a second skin, a skirt’s cut calculated for precise movement.
Experimentation pervades. Oversize deconstructed cotton shirts become dresses, while workwear coats are rendered in padded twill, articulating their utilitarian ethos in new, unexpected ways.
A play of opposites also dictates the collection’s material gamut. As in previous seasons, natural fabrics juxtapose synthetics, as in an organic bamboo jersey paired with nylon and in raw-edged silks alternated with wrinkled viscose. Novel textures are created by knitting industrial rubber bands into skirts and in a dress made out of chain-mail composed from hardware store hoops. Thought-out
reconfiguration yields a lighter, more modern idea of tweed.
Ornamentation is equally high in technique and engineered rather than applied. Metal hardware is integrated into garments to build a familiar silhouette through innovative means. Touches of gold come in a boxcalf bustier hand-painted with gold leaf —for a spare, ancient effect— and on silicone artwork prints.
Among many bags, the Amazona takes the spotlight, present here in three new styles including a multi-pocket variation pairing functionality with playful aesthetics. While the new Joyce bag, with its prominent circular gold logo plate, completes the collection, an irresistible hand-painted napa neck pendant in the shape of a cat’s
face anchors it firmly in the culture of our times.
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