- Army and surplus clothing. A familiar military palette, taken out of context and put into high fashion shapes, with couture techniques.
- Classic decorations reinterpreted in fresh ways, by changing scale and elevating materials.
Utilitarian clothing was the starting point for the Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 collection. Shown against the backdrop of a large pink house, with a narration inspired by the John Smith 1976 short film ‘The Girl Chewing Gum,’ and using a neutral based color palette seen in classic army and surplus clothing, wool gabardine dresses were belted at the waist while long silk shantung shirt dresses featured front patch pockets and epaulettes highlighted with gold buttons. Wool mélange suiting in military green and blue included wide leg pants paired with a fitted classic 4- pocket coat and belted cargo pants with a cropped 2-pocket jacket. Becoming more decorated as the show progressed, large patch pocket mini-skirts in duchess satin were belted with army shirting featuring guipure embroidery. Resin cabochons highlighted the hems and necklines of wool crepe jackets and cotton twill pleated dresses. Flower dot embroidered silk, was used in dresses and long skirts, paired with oversized sweatshirts embroidered with cabochons. Sleek jersey gowns with cut-out details were belted and presented in rich colors of blue and green, while short hopsack dresses had full skirts, heavily decorated with pockets, guipure and cabochons details.
Playing with classic shapes and luxurious materials, the shoes in the Spring 2015 collection included three key styles. Classic leather boots in black and dark brown provided a military edge, while velvet mary-janes came in two crystal-encrusted heel heights. Flat slide sandals in color ranging from ivory to gold to deep blue were presented in silk twill, duchess satin and velvet with pavé buckles. The Surplus oversize hobo bag, in alligator with antique gold hardware, complimented the RTW in a range of military colors. Playing on the utilitarian idea, cross body bags were a highlight with the Cadet and heavily decorated Trooper, presented in corresponding fabrics to their respective RTW looks.